The cookery obligations in this family have come to me lately. Cooking for a family of eight is no mean feat. I suppose the passing of the mantle was expedited by the fall my mother had. The astounding thing about her kitchen is that it contains the same cookware as it did 20 years ago. It’s not tagged among the best cookware sets of the year, but it doesn’t need to be. Her cookware is fantastically long-lived. My mother thinks that copper pans are a waste of time. Her faithful standbys are cast-iron pans that she avers are almost nonstick. I think it’s something she learned from the years she spent dwelling in Asia.

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